Friday, October 5, 2012

Day Five: Up The White Pass Trail and on to Whitehorse


The Klondike gold rush is still a central attraction of the Skagway area.  The would be mine owners had to start here and then trudge up over either the Chilkoot or the White Pass to the Klondike River and the placer gold.





Better late than never the White Pass & Yukon Railway was completed in 1900.
Like all railroads of the time its construction was a miracle of American engineering.  If you had ridden the train back then it would have been very much like this one.




If you ride the train today, it looks like this.



Skagway River


Skagway from the train.


Mama Bear on the train.



Train track and river.


The other side of the loop.


The Denver Glacier from the train.


A following train.


Lots of tunnels.


Looking down on the river you can still see the White Pass trail use by the miners in 1989 and hikers today.


A no longer used trestle.



Ah, a stronger used trestle.


The line in the middle of the photo is the old trail.



Remains of a WP & YR snow shed on the right and the White Pass Minor's trail on the left.




White Pass, the United States on one side and Canada on the other.  We stopped our trip at Fraser, Alaska. Here we transfer to a very nice tour bus.


The summit area is full lakes and pools of melted  snow. Dead-still water makes a fine mirror.


Lots of the telegraph poles, especial those on the alpine tundra where made into a tri-pod.



Then the water starts moving down slope in creeks and small rivers.


"OK, get out you Passports, hold them up beside your face and don't speak unless spoken to. answer all question with yes or no and don't volunteer anything or make a joke."  (later I learned it was illegal to take a picture of any Candian Customs people, gawd)


Yes, he asked for the bear's passport too.  At this stop I blessed the bus with the grandfather's feather.


And sure enough he delivered.


The driver said seeing a bear here was unusual.


So we stopped and the people became crazy.





Crossing into the Yukon Territory.


Lake after lake all feeding the Klondike River.




Then we saw a second black bear.


Yes it is a black bear. The long face and lack of hump shows that it is not a brown bear.


The driver said he normally saw a bear on this route only maybe two or three  times a month and almost never this close up.  Next stop I left Grandfather a gift.


Bove Island in Tagish Lake another major feed to the Klondike.




Actually the WP & YR has excursions all the way to Carcross.




A square mile of sand. 


Emerald colored Spirit Lake, Yukon




Schwatka Lake


Whitehorse Water Aerodrome 



Beautiful river parks in Whitehorse. I took this from the bus window as we sped by.


Beauteous downtown Whitehorse, Yukon


Unfortunately HAL decided to house us at the "second" hotel in White Horse which was on the other end of town near Nothing.  Oh there was a trolley 3 blocks away but it stopped at 5 pm and we checked in at 4:30. I was a little bit peeved.  Peeved and tired.  I opted for a nap. What ever the charms of White Horse we decided to forfeit them.


You know this part of the world has no air conditioners.  Don't need them, except this was an exceptionally warm summer.  So we opened the window to get some air.  Mistake, that.  Across the street was a tire store...wheeeeee thunk, wheeeeeeee thunk, bang bang bong, wheet wheet...ah the sounds of air wrenches and rubber hammers.  But wait there's more.  The parking lot next to the tire place was for a new not yet open Walmart, and it was being blacktopped.  Four diggers, and trucks and two rollers...the construction went on till 1 a.m. (sun went down at 12:00 midnight) when they finally had blacktopped the whole thing.  Did I mention the smell.
After checking out the "in house" restaurant we opted for the McDonald's next door. It wasn't all bad however.  We found that there was a local craft bazaar in one of the meeting rooms in the hotel.  There we found all sorts of temptation.  













Monday, October 1, 2012

Day 4 : Skagway Alaska .

 We left Juneau about 10 pm on the third night and sailed overnight to Skagway Alaska.  Skagway is the consummate tourist town.


This is our ship at the end of the street and there were three more docked here as well.



Skagway is at the end of a fjord that for some unfathomable reason is called a canal. The first day we were there, there were 15,000 extra people from the ships all over town.


As the day progressed ships left one at a time until only one, our ship was left. It wasn't really our ship anymore because we had  disembarked and were now starting the next phase of the trip by train and then tour bus.


With only one ship in port it almost looked uncrowded.


Of course our rooms weren't ready so the tour people arranged a tour for us around town until they were.  Yep, of course we didn't ride in this one.



Rather we took a regular bus and wandered for a couple of hours.  We visited the cemetery. :(  Is there anything more... kitsch...that a big rock painted gold pretending to be a gold nugget.


Where we saw the continuously refurbished graves of some of the more "famous" characters from Skagway many who had died climbing the pass to get to the Yukon and Gold. 


I looked around at the base of the trees to see if any remains had been pushed up by the roots, but alas there were no juju bones to be found.  I did however find a large black feather from a raven.  I put it in my day pack for later use.



We also got to  drive by the White Pass & Yukon Railroad yards.  This has been on my list of places to see for a very long time.




One of these old engines, might be one in the shop that's operational, sat out in back of the Enid School for years and years until it was purchased by the Fort Worth and Western Railroad, and then by the WP & YR.







Now this is not a picture of a live bear.


Rather it is the back of the tour bus that arrived, and would be meeting us at the end of the rail line to take us on to Dawson.


OK, another bear.  Did I mentioned we went shopping?


After a nap, we walked down to the small boat docks to find a seafood restaurant that served up local beer and daily catch.


Beer battered deep fried halibut and clam chowder, and I forced myself to eat every drop and crumb.  As a bonus we got to watch our ship leave without us.



So we stumbled back up the hill to our Westmark Hotel of interesting configuration. Tomorrow we ride the famous WP & YR up this river and into Canada.